…There Is No Looking At A Building After Seeing Italy…0
jscott posted in Day To Day on April 11th, 2008
…In Theory, Communism Works. In Theory…
As the 3am shuttle finally departed my place at 4:20am, it finally began to sink in that I could forget about the UK for a while and take in Italy for the next week and a half. Before arriving in the England, I remember hearing about the discount airlines in Europe such as RyanAir and Easyjet that offer flights for a penny (a Sterling penny, so like 2 cents Canadian or American). Now of course these don’t include taxes and airport fees but even still, flights often are only £5-10 one way for a one or two hour flight. You can’t even catch a bus in Canada for that price. I wondered how they could possibly make any money. I had my theories but I now have a better understanding.
Such fares are available only when booked weeks in advance and are generally at less convenient times (i.e. early morning, late night, mid week, etc). If you book closer to your departure date, you’re going to pay more. Also, when they say “no-frills,” they mean it. It’s not like Air Canada domestic where you have to pay for your own drinks and food. When they say no frills, this means not only no food or drinks for free, this means you pay £3 to check in; like £9 for checking in one piece of luggage (up to 15kg, not 20-23kg like most airlines); the seats don’t even recline. Seating is also open (i.e. first come, first serve) so you just sit wherever you can find an open seat. To combat this problem, you can opt for “Priority Booking” which allows you on to the plane earlier so that there would be a better selection of seats. However, there are still no guarantees. This, of course, carries an additional fee but in my experience is actually fairly useless as it seems that about two thirds of the flight tends to have priority boarding which really results in no one having it. All these little fees here and there, combined with government subsidization for flying in and out of smaller airports and nearly fully booked flights explains how such airlines can operate successfully.
…Brit Happens…
All this aside, I boarded my Ryanair flight at London’s Stansted Airport around sunrise and found a seat near the rear, by the window. As we took off, I could see the English countryside, dimly lit by the new day’s sun. Having grown up in Ontario where the view from a plane exhibits a very deliberate, polygonal countryside. As we flew towards the English Channel, however, the landscape was anything but calculated. You could see one of the primary differences between the New World and the Old World. While, for the most part, North American had the opportunity to plan and layout an efficient and practical grid system for most (farm)land, in England, you can only imagine the history behind how some of boundaries of the farmers’ fields were determined. The Canadian landscape was divvied up in a mostly premeditated fashion. The English landscape just seems to have happened.

After this deep contemplation, a brief nap seemed to be in order. I awoke later to the stunning view of the majestic Swiss Alps. The sun shimmered from the snow capped peaks as these mighty apexes blended in and out of the clouds almost indistinguishably. My spirits lifted as I started to contemplate the trip ahead of me.
Ryanair claims to have the most flights which arrive on time of any airline and on this occasion, they were actually half an hour early than scheduled. It makes me wonder if it shows a disregard for safety in the same way that led Pizza Pizza to stop offering 30 minutes or free due to traffic accidents by their drivers but regardless, I had arrived in Rome alive.
…When In Rome…
Here’s a small piece of travelling advice that I usually follow myself but decided to neglect on this occasion: when arriving in a new city or country, know where your accommodation is located and how to get there BEFORE you arrive. I wandered around for a while looking for where I thought my hostel was located based on me having looked at Google Maps about three weeks prior. Amazingly, my mind’s cartographic knowledge could not reconstruct as accurate a map as I had hoped and I eventually broke down and consulted the interweb for address and directions to Legends Hostel.
The directions on their website were actually fairly accurate, if not the most efficient way to reach the hostel. As I approached where they said I would find the hostel, there was absolutely no indication that I was going the right way. In fact, I walked right by it at first until I walked back about 10 metres and noticed a small buzzer beside an unmarked door labelled, “Legends Hostel.”
Finally, I was there. I checked in, dropped my pack off in my room and decided I’d take a quick walk around before coming back and treating myself to a few birthday drinks. The “quick walk” took about four hours and took me through many small neighbourhoods, past countless churches, fountains, buildings and ruins, of which many were certainly far older than even the notion of Canada. Most notably, the Colosseum.

…At My Signal, Unleash Hell…
We’ve all seen the Colosseum on TV and in movies like the 2000 (or, seeing as I was in Italy, MM) epic Gladiator or the far more disappointing Jumper (MMVIII), which, perhaps not-so-coincidentally, had its world premiere in Rome, and though it looks exactly as you picture it, it’s somehow nothing like you imagined. I think the thing that first struck me was that it is right in the middle of the city, surrounded by more contemporary buildings and parks and main roads. I always seemed to picture it as a bit of a lone monolith, surrounded by other ruins and perhaps fields or small forests. The stark reality is that life in Italy did not end in the 6th century AD when the Colosseum fell out of use. Life carried on, as it has everywhere else, and while this ancient relic of another time gives us a glimpse into like nearly two millennia in the past, at no point can you completely escape the fact that you are still in the 21st century.
Restaurants, bibite (cold fizzy drink) stands, bus stops, construction fences (like Canadian snow fences), a Metro station and other such telltale signs of modern society permeate the area; not to mention the thousands of tourists from across the globe (me included) taking countless digital photos, hoping to capture as ‘authentic’ a photo as possible rather than spending 50 (Euro)cents on a postcard that has captured exactly what they wish they could (me included). That said, it is still a spectacular sight. So much so that I was inclined to stroll past it again the next day during my mostly aimless wandering.
As I stood there and tried to take it in, creating a mental postcard that would far surpass any photo I could ever hope to snap (without a helicopter at least), I decided to forgo the long queue to actually go inside the Colosseum. I also started to realise that the hot, sunny 20 degree day that I had been basking in all afternoon was starting to turn on me and my bald head. Having forgotten my sunscreen back at the hostel, I decided to head back, grab a beer and a wee kip.
I woke up, had a shower and soon realised that I had indeed spent a tad too long in the sun. It was nothing devastating but enough pinkness in my skin that the warm shower could not hide the truth. With this, I moseyed down to the kitchen for promise of a free dinner to accompany the birthday wine I had purchased. There were about a half dozen people also taking advantage of the simple yet abundant and satisfying pasta dinner. It was over dinner that I learned that this day, my birthday, was the final day of “Culture Week” and that everything, including the tour of the Colosseum, had been free all week. Needless to say, I was a little disappointed that all the staff at the hostel and somehow neglected to mention what would probably be the most important thing they might tell a budget traveller. I decided to not worry about it and contented myself with a few glasses of wine before retiring for the night. And so went the next few days in Rome. Daytime wandering, evening dinners and wine with fellow hostel guests, including a couple Brits, Keith and Rob, with whom I visited the Vatican.
…A Very Special Day For A Very Special Person…
Despite not being a religious person, I had a definite interest in seeing the Vatican. Perhaps it’s just cool to say you’ve been to the World’s smallest sovereign state (by population and by area). Perhaps I’ve just watch Eurotrip too many times. Either way, there were countless things to see in the Vatican. On the final Sunday of every month, access to the Vatican museum is free of charge. It’s also supposed to be the most ridiculously busy day of the month. Keith, Rob and I and decided to forgo the free day and decided to go on the Monday. We had walked about an hour from our hostel to arrive at the Vatican. It was a little before 10am and the line for the museum weaved down a long wall and around the corner on the next street. So much for leaving early and beating the crowd. We decided that if we were going to have to endure such a queue, we would need to find a bathroom first.

This, as is often the case in Italy (and yes, we were technically still in Italy at this point as evidenced by the tall, obvious stone wall around which the waiting tourists snaked), proved to be a bit of a challenge. We saw a sign for a McDonalds 300m ahead. I realise that 300m should mean metres but I swear it seemed like kilometres by the time we got there. As we looked at the door, it said on the door that they opened at 10am. Perfect timing, as it was 10:05am. Even more convenient, an employee was just opening the door as we arrived. She looked at us and, in one brief, Italian phrase, quickly shot us down before turning back inside and closing the door behind her. It was at this point that we noticed the white piece of paper that said that today only, for some reason, they did not open until 11am. Doomed. We luckily found a small café around the corner that were kind enough to oblige our needs and we wandered back towards the Vatican Museum.
As we approached, we noticed something very interesting. The throngs of people had all but disappeared. What had appeared to be at least an hour’s had shrunk to a meagre five minute wait and in no time we were exploring the museum. All in all, the museum was interesting in the sense of seeing statues, tapestries and paintings from hundreds and even thousands of years ago. We debated the authenticity of the various works of art in the sense of why would they leave old, fragile, very historic pieces open to thousands of visitors each day. My belief was that a large proportion of them were replicas. Real or not, there were certainly some cool things on display. As we wandered the various exhibits and, more specifically, the Sistine Chapel, we became very content with our decision to avoid ‘free day’ the day prior. Everyone shuffles through slower than Jesus himself carrying the cross (sorry, I couldn’t resist), staring to the ceiling with their cameras leading the way before randomly stopping in unpredictable fashion, causing you to bump into them and utter, “Scooza,” a bastardised version of the Italian word for “excuse me,” despite the fact that you know damn well that that person is not Italian and that this term means about as much to them as it does you. We moved lazily through the sardine canned hallways, flanked by disturbing yet fascinating painted ceilings and tapestry covered walls, leading towards what everyone really wanted to see.
As we rounded a corner, and down some stairs, we were inundated with signs instructing us to be silent and to keep our cameras in our bags. This was it, the big one. The actual Sistine Chapel. The lights were dim and the whispers of such a large crowd still came across as a dull roar. This was a very majestic room. A glance up and you see it. Michelangelo’s God Creates Adam. It’s exactly as you picture it, only smaller. I had this expectation that it would take up more real estate on this masterpiece of a ceiling but it commands no more space than any of the other vignettes. We were quickly snapped back to reality as a security guard came to keep the crowd moving and down the few short steps to the main floor of the chapel. From there, we took it all in a little more comfortably. Sometimes, I wish I didn’t know English so that I too could ignore signs that are blatantly posted in English prohibiting certain behaviour. The number of people who so brazenly had their cameras above their heads, flashing pictures of the ceiling was astonishing. And to be honest, a good proportion of them could certainly read those signs. Some were a little more discreet. Which got me thinking, what’s that saying? When in (a sovereign state landlocked by) Rome?!
…True Majesty…
Having experienced all that the museum had to offer (which, unless you’re a huge art fan, is really not that much), we made our way to St. Peter’s Square and into St. Peter’s Basilica. While the Sistine Chapel was impressive, this piece of architecture was awe inspiring. I’ve only seen a small portion of what the world has to offer but to this point in my life, it is the most amazing building I have ever been in. the scale of it is mind bottling (you know, when things are so crazy it gets your thoughts all trapped, like in a bottle). This massive structure has a capacity of about 60,000 people; more than your average baseball stadium. It took over a century to build and to imagine people in the 16th century scaling huge scaffolding to complete the upper reaches of the massive dome is unfathomable.
We decided to scale the 551 or so stairs to see the view from the dome. First, you get an amazing view from inside the dome and a closer view of the incredible detail that was put into every square inch of its design. You also get a far better impression of just how high above the main floor the dome is and what an architectural marvel it must have been when it was built, let alone today. From there, a claustrophobic climb trough a very narrow stairway places you atop of the external roof of the dome, giving you a spectacular 360 degree view of both Rome and the Vatican. Blessed by another clear, sunny day, we savoured the view before trudging down the confined passageways back to the ground level and wandered past Trevi Fountain en route to the hostel.
While Rome (and most of Italy for that matter) has an overwhelming amount of fountains (all of which are seen by any typically draught stricken Australian as a huge waste of water) but perhaps the most famous is Trevi Fountain. It is a beautiful fountain as any of the couple thousand people surrounding it any given time would probably agree. Tradition has it that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you will be ensured a return to Rome. I did not partake in this tradition. With the price of flights in Europe, those mere coins themselves could ensure my return to Rome. With that, we retired for our free pasta dinner, a couple beers and an early night to bed for the next day I was to catch a train at 6:50am for Florence.
…Firenze…
After frantically trying to find my train and make sure my ticket was stamped on the platform before embarking, I managed to find my seat and soon learned about the magic of the Italian trains in lulling me to sleep. I managed to awaken a couple times and saw some amazing views of the countryside before my eyes sank again. Upon arrival in Florence, I was this time armed with an address for my hostel and asked at the information desk for directions. This saved a lot of wandering and soon I had arrived and the brand new PLUS Hostel. As it was quite early, I wasn’t able to check in yet but I stored my luggage with them, grabbed some breakfast and hopped another train. This time for Pisa.
Before going to Pisa, I had assumed that my visit would consist of a one hour train ride to Pisa, a couple of quick photos of the tower, then an hour train ride back to Florence but as I arrived in Pisa, and began to walk around Pisa, I decided that I might as well have lunch too. Otherwise, I my expectations were completely realised. Beyond the tower, there is little more to offer a unique experience in over other Italian cities. The tower itself is pretty cool. It definitely looks odd to see a building slanted 3.97 degrees to the side. But once you’ve seen it, the novelty quickly wears off and you check it off your mental “things to see” list.
Back in Florence, I checked into my room and set out to wander the city. Without even trying, I passed by one of the fake statues of David. While the original David is at the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence, there are a couple replicas scattered about the city. The first stands guard in it’s grey simplicity in front of Palazzo Vecchio and, despite being a fake, still seemed far more authentic than the one in a food court in Surfers Paradise. As it was getting to be about 6pm, I decided to head to Piazzale Michelangelo to see the famed sunset over the Florence cityscape. What I had forgotten was that a couple days earlier, we had set the clocks forward an hour and it wasn’t quite as near sunset as my rushing up to the outlook might have indicated. Regardless, it was a nice, warm day and the view from this park was quite stunning. Also, this was home to the second fake David. Having now seen the other fake David, I was instantly able to discern that this too was a replica as it was significantly smaller than the real one – and green.

I stuck it out for a couple hours to share the sunset with a couple hundred other tourists and was happy that I did. It’s always nice to watch a sunset, especially whilst overlooking such a lovely city as Florence but the highlight of this sunset was the brief minute or two, before the sun had faded from view, when there was a warming glow reflected off the buildings of the city, giving them a majestically surreal feeling that had to that point been washed out by the sun’s rays and that would likely hide away until a little under 24 hours later.
After a passable cannelloni dinner at the hostel, I shared a bottle of wine with a few Australians that were sharing my room before laying down to a well deserved sleep. The next day, I bounced about the streets of Florence, taking in the churches and fountains and piazzas that seem to pop up in Italy as often as a Tim Horton’s in Hamilton.
…If Venice Is Sinking, I’m Going Under…
I caught a mid afternoon train that had me arrive in Venice around dinner time. Well, dinner time in, say, Canada. In Italy, I was a few hours early for dinner still. With carefully considered directions to the hostel, I set off from the train station and, as I reached the third bridge (where the hostel was meant to be located), I paused to scan the area. I was looking for building 2205. Buildings in Venice are numbered in a very curious way in that buildings on your left do not correspond to those on your right. I ventured right and noticed a “2205” painted on an otherwise non-descript building. There was a private bridge crossing the canal directly to the door of this building. I moved closer to read what the small sign on the door said, hoping, of course, that it read “A Venice Fish,” the name of the hostel. It did not. Confident that I had followed the directions correctly, I rang the buzzer and someone stuck their head out the window and just as quickly disappeared. A buzzer rang and the door unlocked. I walked in, happy that I’d still never seen the movie Hostel, and progressed up the stairs. As I climbed, I started to hear English in various accents and felt confident that I was in the right place.
I was greeted by Mimo, the guy who ran the hostel. He had lost his voice but was still able scratch out a “€72” through his raspy voice. He showed me to my room and I chose one of 8 beds in the room. I’ve stayed in places similar to this before but never at anywhere near €40 ($60) per night. From my research however, I’d found that other than campsites that had to accessed by water taxis, everything in Venice was gonna be pricey and I shrugged it off and went for a pre-dinner walk. Through the damp streets, I could see the remnants of the storm that had rolled out of town just as I had rolled in but thankfully it had cleared up as if it had been pre-ordered. So that’s why I was paying so much for this hostel. After taking in a few local views and getting enough of a feel of Venice so as to but a warm smile on my face, I decided it was time to grab a cheap bottle of wine and warmify that smile even more.
When I returned, a handful of other guests were already partaking in a few evening beverages and I decided to join them. Shortly thereafter, Mimo announced that it was time for dinner (well, perhaps announced is not the correct word as he had lost his voice, but made obvious by bringing dinner to the table). This (and the meal the following night) was certainly above par for a “free” hostel meal and a nice excuse to sit and chat and meet some new people.
…Lost And Found…
The next day, after some eggs and toast as supplied by Mimo, I wandered around Venice to take in the sights. When consulting guides for Venice, they always tell you of Piazza San Marco and Ponte di Rialto as the “must see” things about Venice and, without a doubt, they are quite stunning but what really struck me about Venice as opposed to the other cities of Italy was that Venice is not about attractions so much as Venice is the attraction. Everywhere you go in Venice displays uniqueness to almost anywhere else you’ve ever been. As I wandered around, I thought back to the night before, speaking to people over dinner. I asked, since most of them seemed to be departing, if anyone had a Venetian map that they no longer needed. Nobody did. To which an American guy added, “You don’t need one.” He was right. Venice is not a big place. Did I get lost? Lots! Did I feel lost though? Not really. You could never wander more than a minute or two without seeing a sign with an arrow that pointed towards one of the main attractions. Confusing at times were the signs that would say something like “Ponte di Rialto” and then have an arrow pointing left and an arrow pointing right. At first, this seems a little disconcerting but then the more I reflected upon it, it actually felt quite reassuring. It basically meant that no matter which way I went, I’d be fine. If only all of life’s decisions were so easy.
I started to take comfort in the all at once lost yet on track feeling of wandering the footways of Venice but as night started to fall, much like other Italian cities, you quickly start to lose landmarks that have been so helpful in guiding you throughout the day. How so you ask? Well, every little shop that closes simply rolls down plain steel roll bars, all of which are tagged in some type of graffiti, to protect their windows, and what was once a pronounced and obvious location has suddenly become identical to the alley around the corner as well as the one that’s coming up around the next corner. After a few days, I’m sure you’d start to recognise buildings by their spray painted facades but after just one night, I decided that it was probably time to head back for a short nap before another fine meal from Mimo.

An Aussie, Rez, who had been in my room in Florence had checked into A Venice Fish and, when I woke from my nap, he and I, along with a few other backpackers, made our way to the ‘supermercati’ for a few ‘birra’ to go along with our dinner. Much like the previous night, a bunch of people from a bunch of countries hung around and talked travel over a few drinks. The next day, Rez and I walked around with another Aussie and a Texan and, minus Rez, we all caught our respective trains to our respective destinations out of Venice. My next and final stop was Milan.
…Vino In Milano…
In the summer following my second year at McMaster University, I worked at the Lazy Flamingo (and its subsidiary bars) at Hess Village in Hamilton. One of the girls that worked there that summer was an Irish girl by the name of Caroline. Despite having never really hung out other than at work while she was in Canada, for some reason we kept in touch and, as fate would have it, she was now teaching at a school in Milan. Thankfully, she was kind enough to put me up for a few nights and show me the sights. Milan was a nice change of pace from the rest of my trip. Less hectic, more laid back pace. Unless of course you count the Italian band that played in Caroline’s little village of Opera on the Friday night. I learned, in retrospect, that their name was OxxxA and they put on a very enthusiastic performance that really had the crowd enthralled. I’m not even joking in the least. Quite entertaining. 
The next day, Caroline showed me around Milan. While there was no doubt that you were in Italy, Milan was very obviously a more contemporary city than the others that I had visited in the past week. While I had pretty much seen enough fountains and churches to last me a good few months at least, I had to admit that the Duomo in Milan was a rather exceptional bit of architecture (even if it too was under construction). On a beautiful Saturday afternoon, we paid our €5 and scaled the stairs to the top. When we looked down at the square in front of the Duomo, there was a stage set up and a presidential rally was going to be taking place later that day. If that had been in the US, there is no way in hell that they would be letting people on nearby rooftops during a presidential rally but thankfully it was not the US and we took in the views of Milan atop Italy’s second largest church (with a capacity of about 40,000). By the time we made it back to the square below, OxxxA had taken the stage, evidently in support of the presidential candidate. We were meeting Caroline’s friend, Leah, for dinner and decided to walk as it was still such a lovely day. We stopped at a ‘bibite’ stand and grabbed a couple Beck’s for our walk. Just as we neared central station, we realised we still had another 10-15 minutes to walk and decided to visit another ‘bibite’ stand for another round of travellers.
The rest of the weekend pretty much consisted of wandering around, seeing the sites, enjoying the food and drink and me basking in the final days of my holiday, taking it easy. I caught another Ryanair flight back to London from Milan and, thankfully, seem to have brought the agreeable weather back with me. Caroline has been a little upset that while I brought some good weather back to England, I didn’t actually leave any in the now rain soaked Milan.
All in all, Italy was a great country to visit. Spring was a perfect time to visit as it wasn’t too busy and the weather was phenomenal. I would definitely like to go back some day and take a little more time in some places, check out the South and spend some time in a small, hillside village somewhere in the middle of nowhere. If you have the means, I highly recommend it. for more pictures, check here.









